A study on the characteristics and contemporary innovative design of Tongxiang Puyuan silk

The Puyuan silk is a famous silk fabric produced in the Puyuan area of Tongxiang during the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Puyuan silk enjoys the reputation of " the best silk in the world" . It is one Huzhou erepe of the famous silk varieties named after the place of origin in the ancient Jiangnan like Yuezhou gauze, Hangzhou habutai and Huzhou crepe. And the Puyuan silk is also known as the famous silk product produced in the ancient Jiaxing area, along with Jiaxing brocade and Lingchou. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Puyuan silk became the palace silk, and was often used in the production of military flags, battle gowns and brocade clothes. Puyuan silk weaving skills became intangible cultural heritage in Zhejiang Province in 2009, and its inheritance and innovation have entered a new historical stage. The research on Tongxiang Puyuan silk is helpful for the historical inheritance and contemporary innovation of Tongxiang Puyuan silk products and provides case support for the innovative development of Zhejiang silk culture and silk products. This article takes the origin and development of Tongxiang Puyuan silk as clues, defines its variety range, and analyzes the product characteristics of Tongxiang Puyuan silk from two levels of technical beauty (material \& technique) and artistic beauty (shape,design \& color). It analyzes and proposes the methods and paths of contemporary innovation of Tongxiang Puyuan silk. The research concludes that: Tongxiang Puyuan silk is mostly composed of single-layer structure and simple organization, and also has complex structure in backed structure and double-layer structure. The warp and weft yarns of most Puyuan silk are of the same color, and the warp yarns are the ground, and the weft yams are the flower. In the process of development, Puyuan silk products are influenced by famous silk products from all over the world and have the characteristics of many varieties. According to the historical evolution of its varieties, it can be divided into silk categories as the main body, including eight categories of habutai, taffeta, twills, satin, leno, gauze, sheer and crepe. The patterns of Puyuan silk, influenced by the economic and social development of Tongxiang area and traditional Chinese thought, pay attention to the expression of the symbolic meaning of the patterns, forming the main feature that " the pictures must have meaning and the meaning must be auspicious". The colors of Puyuan silk have the characteristics of the integration of the regional characteristics of Tongxiang and the traditional Chinese characteristics. The materials and processing technology of Puyuan silk are affected by the natural environment and geographical location of Tongxiang, which makes the products have the characteristics of whiteness, fineness, flexibility, and washability. The article not only systematically and deeply sorts out the data of Tongxiang Puyuan silk, but also puts forward the product innovation path and method of Tongxiang Puyuan silk from three aspects of art, technology and business with the consumer demand as the core and provides for the inheritance and innovation practice of Tongxiang Puyuan silk. This path and method can expand the influence of Tongxiang Puyuan silk in the new era and the new generation of audience and enable the sustainable development of Puyuan silk.