Analysis on the evolution and variety characteristics of Hangzhou brocade

Hangzhou brocade refers to silk produced in Hangzhou. As the most technologically advanced silk product in Hangzhou, Hangzhou brocade is known as the “flower of Eastern art”. In 2011, the silk weaving technique (Hangzhou Brocade Weaving Technique was included in the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. Hangzhou Dujinsheng Industrial Co., Ltd. as a representative of Hangzhou brocade production enterprises was selected as a representative project protection unit of national intangible cultural heritage. The inheritance and innovation of Hangzhou brocade have made major breakthroughs. The study of Hangzhou brocade is conducive to providing theoretical basis and applicable methodology for the historical inheritance and contemporary innovation of Hangzhou brocade, and reference for the traceability and contemporary innovation of other traditional silk varieties. This article takes the origin and development of Hangzhou brocade as a clue clarifies the concept of Hangzhou brocade according to national standards defines its variety range and analyzes the organizational structure appearance effect and raw materials of Hangzhou satin products. It summarizes the artistic and technical beauty characteristics of Hangzhou satin and explores the variety characteristics and historical and cultural value of Hangzhou satin. Research has found that the title of Hangzhou brocade originated from the period of the Wu and Yue states, with the earliest brocade workers being ancient people from Runzhou. Therefore, Hangzhou brocade together with Song brocade and Yun brocade belongs to the ancient Jiangnan brocade, but each has its own characteristics in the development process of modern times. Hangzhou brocade is a color woven jacquard silk fabric produced in Hangzhou, mainly with complex weaves. The surface of the fabric presents a rich texture color effect, and its main feature is that the group combination of warp and weft is no less than 3, that is when the warp group is 1, there are at least 2 weft groups and vise versa. The complex organization used for weaving Hangzhou brocade is of ordinary organizational structure and it is a heavy organization a double-layer organization or a multi-layer organization formed by interweaving three or more sets of warp and weft silk threads. The three main types of Hangzhou brocade are the weft heavy structure brocade, double warp structure brocade and shadow light texture brocade. Among them the weft heavy structure brocade products have the characteristics of heavy structure, while the double warp structure brocade products have the characteristics of layered structure. This article clarifies the definition of Hangzhou brocade, constructs a product lineage and conducts a detailed analysis of Hangzhou brocade varieties. The relevant research and conclusions provide reference and methodology for the cultural inheritance and product innovation of Hangzhou brocade products. The research methods and conclusions of this article can provide reference for the inheritance and innovation of other historical classic silk varieties.