02244nas a2200445   4500000000100000000000100001000000100002008004100003653003400044653001200078653001000090653002100100653001100121653001900132653002000151653001600171653000900187653002500196653002500221653001900246653001900265653001200284653001000296653001200306653000900318653002100327653001200348653002200360653002200382653002100404100001300425700001600438700001000454245007300464856014700537300001200684490000800696520107400704022002001778       2022                            d10aIntangible cultural heritages10aChinese10aCores10aCultural aspects10aDesign10adesign feature10aDesign features10aKey process10aLead10aoriental art feature10aOriental art feature10apattern schema10aPattern schema10aRecords10aShape10aSichuan10aSilk10aTextile industry10aWeaving10aweaving technique10aWeaving technique10aXiangjin brocade1 aZ. Wenji1 aC. Rongrong1 aN. Li00aDesign and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade  uhttps://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85140396535&doi=10.2478%2fftee-2022-0030&partnerID=40&md5=f2692ba812595ed88ec419604bf501aa  a116-1290 v1513 aAs one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as "the flower of Oriental art", draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades  historical texts, images, and style.  a12303666 (ISSN)