03125nas a2200289   4500000000100000008004100001653002700042653001500069653003200084653002100116653001600137100001700153700002800170700001700198700001800215700002100233700001600254700001700270700001900287700002000306700001800326245019900344856015000543490000700693520211500700022002002815                                       d10aArchaeological costume10aBronze Age10aExperimental reconstruction10aRadiocarbon date10aTextile Art1 aMayke Wagner1 aMoa Hallgren-Brekenkamp1 aDongliang Xu1 aXiaojing Kang1 aPatrick Wertmann1 aCarol James1 aIrina Elkina1 aDominic Hosner1 aChristian Leipe1 aPavel Tarasov00aThe invention of twill tapestry points to Central Asia: Archaeological record of multiple textile techniques used to make the woollen outfit of a ca. 3000-year-old horse rider from Turfan, China  uhttps://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85122406672&doi=10.1016%2fj.ara.2021.100344&partnerID=40&md5=81b075fabbdf6927f7d540c2846341b20 v293 aAncient knowledge of the textile arts production and weaving techniques belong to the world s intangible cultural heritage and shape the appearance of most people worldwide when used for clothing. However, their ancient roots can be seldom studied because archaeological textiles and looms on which they were produced decay in most environments without trace. This article presents technical details of fabric and finishing techniques of eight wool garments of a horseman buried ca. 1200–1000 BCE at Yanghai, located in the Turfan oasis in Northwest China. They show an unprecedented diversity and a free combination of three weaving techniques and one type of weft twining supplemented by at least three different braiding methods to finish and fasten the clothes. All techniques were validated by reproduction. The most complex piece of the costume, the man s trousers, known as one of the oldest preserved to date, was made with four different textile techniques on one device, two of them are new discoveries and termed “Yanghai dovetailed twill tapestry” and “Yanghai weft twining”. The studied textiles are local products showing advancements of wool technologies developed in the southern (tapestry) and northern (twill) parts of West Asia, which were transferred and further refined by wool-workers via as yet unknown areas in central and northern Eurasia. A specific inclined T-hook pattern zone at the trousers  knees finds close correspondence with patterns on ritual bronze vessels of the late Shang dynasty in the Chinese Central Plains, ca. 1300–1100 BCE, and on pottery of the Andronovo-Federovo archaeological complex in southwest Siberia and Central Asia, ca. 1800–1000 BCE. Since the appearance of this pattern in Northwest and Central China coincides with the arrival of domesticated horses and associated technologies, the horse breeders likely were the mediators. The stepped pyramid or merlon pattern might refer to architectural features of Eastern Iran and the middle Bronze Age Oxus civilisation. To verify the possible connections, however, is subject to future studies.  a23522267 (ISSN)