TY - JOUR
KW - Intangible cultural heritages
KW - Chinese
KW - Cores
KW - Cultural aspects
KW - Design
KW - design feature
KW - Design features
KW - Key process
KW - Lead
KW - oriental art feature
KW - Oriental art feature
KW - pattern schema
KW - Pattern schema
KW - Records
KW - Shape
KW - Sichuan
KW - Silk
KW - Textile industry
KW - Weaving
KW - weaving technique
KW - Weaving technique
KW - Xiangjin brocade
AU - Z. Wenji
AU - C. Rongrong
AU - N. Li
AB - As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as "the flower of Oriental art", draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades  historical texts, images, and style.
BT - Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe
DO - 10.2478/ftee-2022-0030
LA - English
M1 - 3
N1 - Publisher: Sciendo
N2 - As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as "the flower of Oriental art", draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades  historical texts, images, and style.
PY - 2022
SP - 116
EP - 129
T2 - Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe
TI - Design and Cultural Aspects of 20th Century Chinese Xiangjin Brocade
UR - https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85140396535&doi=10.2478%2fftee-2022-0030&partnerID=40&md5=f2692ba812595ed88ec419604bf501aa
VL - 151
SN - 12303666 (ISSN)
ER -