TY - JOUR
KW - Degradation
KW - Dyes
KW - Experimental test
KW - Hyper-spectral imageries
KW - Intangible cultural heritages
KW - LED μ-spectrofluorimetry
KW - Light
KW - Lining
KW - Model samples
KW - Natural degradation
KW - Photodegradation
KW - Photodegradation rate
KW - Removal
KW - Shape
KW - Spectrofluorimetry
KW - Spectroscopy
KW - Wool
KW - colour chart
KW - fading
KW - hyperspectral imaging
KW - yellow dyes
AU - Hortense de La Codre
AU - Charlotte Marembert
AU - Pauline Claisse
AU - Floreal Daniel
AU - Remy Chapoulie
AU - Laurent Servant
AU - Aurelie Mounier
AB - Aubusson (France) has been inscribed on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2009 for its centuries-old tradition for the art of tapestry. The present study concerns one of these “Grand teint” tapestries, a Verdure with Count von Brühl s coat of arms (18th C.), characterized by very high-quality dyeing and fine weaving. The restoration in progress allowed the removal of the lining of the back, which protected the colour from light. Hyperspectral imagery and μ-spectrofluorimetry made on each side of the tapestry showed the influence of natural degradation of dyes. Experimental tests carried out model samples artificially aged, allowed us a better understanding of these observations. The fibers (silk and wool) and dyes (weld, …) were identified and the roles of alum and tartar as mordants were questioned. Our work revealed the action of the recipe on the photodegradation rate and the effect of aging on the spectra s shape for yellow dyes and the disappearance of some compounds, such as chlorophyll “a,” as a marker of the degradation.
DO - 10.1002/col.22646
M1 - 3
N1 - Publisher: John Wiley and Sons Inc
N2 - Aubusson (France) has been inscribed on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO since 2009 for its centuries-old tradition for the art of tapestry. The present study concerns one of these “Grand teint” tapestries, a Verdure with Count von Brühl s coat of arms (18th C.), characterized by very high-quality dyeing and fine weaving. The restoration in progress allowed the removal of the lining of the back, which protected the colour from light. Hyperspectral imagery and μ-spectrofluorimetry made on each side of the tapestry showed the influence of natural degradation of dyes. Experimental tests carried out model samples artificially aged, allowed us a better understanding of these observations. The fibers (silk and wool) and dyes (weld, …) were identified and the roles of alum and tartar as mordants were questioned. Our work revealed the action of the recipe on the photodegradation rate and the effect of aging on the spectra s shape for yellow dyes and the disappearance of some compounds, such as chlorophyll “a,” as a marker of the degradation.
SP - 613
EP - 622
TI - Non-invasive characterization of yellow dyes in tapestries of the 18th century: Influence of composition on degradation
UR - https://www.scopus.com/inward/record.uri?eid=2-s2.0-85101942504&doi=10.1002%2fcol.22646&partnerID=40&md5=e9e554e1b61165b382c770f376102211
VL - 46
SN - 03612317 (ISSN)
ER -